Against our better judgment, my husband, Lee, and I decided to disregard our holiday to-do lists and grab an opportunity to spend the week before Christmas at the Galleon Resort (www.galleonresort.com) in Key West. Since we had a two bedroom suite, we invited our son, Rich, and his girlfriend, Jennifer, to join us. Since Rich lives in Boulder, Jennifer lives in Dallas and we live in Minneapolis, it was a unique opportunity to gather in one place for fun and frolic in the sun. That's exactly what we did.
The first day, as we sat in the sun gazing at the yachts and sailboats eating a delicious (and inexpensive) breakfast at the Galleon's Sunset Deli Cafe, we each shared what we wanted to do while there. For Lee, it was listening to live music at many of the local restaurants and bars on Duval Street. For me, it was snorkeling once or twice and replacing all calories burned while snorkeling at the fine local restaurants. Rich wanted to rent bikes to ride around the island and Jennifer wanted to take lots of pictures with her new high tech camera.
We covered them all. Lee has decided that, currently, the best place for live music in Key West is Sloppy Joes on Duval Street (www.sloppyjoes.com) At Sloppy Joe's you'll hear great musicians from early afternoon until late at night but be aware that the later it gets the louder and more 'current' it gets. It's loud too. I enjoy it much more now that I wear ear plugs when we go there. His second choice is The Schooner Wharf Bar (www.schoonerwharf.com) on the wharf. Michael McCloud is there every afternoon or evening and he is versatile and has talent. His favorite duo to listen to while there is a husband and wife team called Black and Skabbudah (www.blackandskabuddah.com). If you are heading to Key West, check their website to find out where they are playing and go there. They are highly entertaining and great musicians. Our adult children usually hit the Green Parrot and Hog's Breath but if you're over 40 don't bother.
Bikes are available everywhere in Key West and Rich found that it pays to comparison shop and barter for the best deal but do it in the morning because by noon they are all gone. I'd suggest that you save the money and hassle of renting a car and get bikes for the week. With bikes, you can be anywhere in ten minutes or less. We really enjoyed biking around town and Jennifer kept her camera in her bike basket We started taking night time bike rides around the neighborhoods and it was really cool. Christmas was in the air everywhere and so many homeowners went over the top with Christmas decorations that Jennifer got dozens of beautiful holiday shots.
We did go snorkeling but I'd never pick the group we used again. We booked a morning trip out to the reef with Sebago (we always book mornings because it's calmer then). They didn't have enough takers for the a.m. trip, so we had to switch to the one o'clock one. We embarked right on time with ten other guests, a small but friendly group comprised of families. The captain then gave a short talk to this "g rated" audience about how we could really booze it up on the way back from snorkeling and introduced us to the "girls" in his crew. The man could not read his audience.
We decided it would be wise not to drink anything once we got a whiff of the restrooms which were down short stairways on either side of the deck. The 'heads' smelled so foul that none of us could make it all the way down the stairs to use them. When I asked a crew member about them, she explained that they were so smelly because the boat had been constructed incorrectly and there was nothing to do. She explained, "They are always this bad. Often worse. We've been smelling those heads for two years and there's nothing we can do." What??
To make the day complete, we got out to the reef and the 3 to 4 foot waves made it impossible to snorkel without drowning. I lasted about 15 minutes in the water and saw one fish. It was our most disappointing snorkeling experience in Key West but we were better off than a couple of our fellow passengers who learned on the way back that they were prone to sea sickness.
We got back to shore, kissed the ground, and decided we were hungry. Luckily none of us had lost our appetites because Key West has so many great restaurants. Our challenge each time we return to Key West is that we have more restaurants we want to visit than meals we can eat in a week. Here are a few we keep going back to and why:
Flamingo's Cafe (www.flamingoskeywest.com) is a small restaurant that is run by a couple from Maine. They have the best crab cakes we've ever tasted. They serve breakfast and lunch only and everything is delicious but the crab cakes benedict will keep you coming back.
For a casual meal (you sit outside with sand under your feet) the fish tacos and the hamburgers at the Schooner Wharf Bar (www.schoonerwharf.com) are fantastic and their margaritas and rum runners are pretty good. While there in the evening, visit Frank's Magic Bar that's tucked in the corner. Frank Everhart is a magician who puts on a hilarious show doing card tricks that still have us shaking our heads. If you buy him drinks and give him tips he'll entertain you for hours. He is a Key West icon and I believe he knows everyone in town. You may want to ask Frank about the personalized city tours he's started doing.
Although Blue Heaven (blueheavenkw.homestead.com) serves every meal, we go there for breakfast. It's fun to bike over and sit at a table under a large shade trees and start the day with one of their huge mugs of coffee. What makes it even more unique are the chickens and roosters wandering around among the tables. Jennifer got some great pictures of a rooster brawl. Often, jazz and blues musicians play in the background while you enjoy a great meal. If you have to wait for a table, there's a pingpong table to keep your party occupied.
Mangia Mangia Pasta Cafe (www.mangia-mangia.com) has fresh pasta and every Italian dish that you can think of prepared exquisitely. The restaurant has great ambiance inside and out so you feel you've been invited to your Italian grandmother's home for dinner. My Italian friend, Sharon, was blown away with the meal we had there.
Our last night in Key West, we went to The Cafe, 509 Southard, for vegetarian food. The Cafe is cozy, friendly and has an amazing menu (but no website). Much to my husband's glee, it isn't just vegetarian and has entrees for every type of eater. Lee said the salmon was incredible and Rich loved the chicken special, but I still day dream about my stuffed squash and Jennifer's sweet potato fries.
One more thing you must experience at least once during your stay in Key West is the nightly sunset celebration at Mallory Square (www.sunsetcelebration.org). It's got vendors selling their wares, food, drink, entertainment, music and a friendly crowd that gives a big round of applause and cheering as the sun goes below the horizon.
If you go to Key West, make sure you put in your WisePack™ travel purse:
30spf or higher suntan lotion
Sunglasses - you are in the tropics
A hat or cap (it's windy and humid so accept that your hair will look bad all week)
A map of Key West
Dramamine if you're going out snorkeling, sailing or jet skiing
Ear plugs if going to Sloppy Joe's, the Green Parrot or other rocking joints.
Refillable water bottle
Camera
See you in Key West! Karen
